The gray and rainy skies of yesterday gave way to sun today, and as I needed to run to a local errand anyway, I woke Clayton Theodore from his sofa slumber and we headed out the door. Remember, dogs are welcome pretty much everywhere here, and he delights in examining his world so I take him along whenever I can.
Our house sits somewhere between the former villages of Grinzing, Nußdorf, and Heiligenstadt in what is now the 19th district of Vienna. Today’s route took us through Nußdorf, the former village at the eastern edge of Vienna on this side of the Danube. First up was the former Firehouse, decorated with a Santa. Austrian children do not receive presents from Santa Claus, but rather, from Christkind (the Christ Child), so I wonder who lives in this house now.
Continuing along, I spotted the former Archduke Albrecht’s house (16th century). My brief research on the Archduke did not disclose anything to share, I’m afraid. The former village Bürgermeister’s (Mayor’s) Haus is on this street, as well.
Walking through the two-way lane that I sometimes drive through (yes, it’s like a game of “Chicken”), I passed the former “Civic Hospital.”
Across the street from the old public hospital is a building with a Latin inscription, “The Eye of God.”
Perhaps the “Eye of God” was watching out for the Vintner’s Haus along the old Roman Limes Road further along the street. The Limes Roads up here in the 19th were part of the northern border of the Roman Empire, known as Vindobonum. We saw remnants of Vindobonum on our long night at the museum outing, and so it is very awe-inspiring to walk along a road that was once part of an ancient empire. By comparison, the US city where we live was settled in 1699, hardly considered old by global historical standards.
I love this. This is in opening in the courtyard, I believe, of one of the local Stüberls, or “parlors.” Basically they are Austrian pubs.
Across from the Stüberl is “Dots im Brünnerhof,” an Asian-fusion cocktail bar/sushi restaurant/coffeeshop housed in an historic building . We’ve not stopped in, perhaps someday.
This shabby structure was the home and workshop of the Tulln Dominican Silversmith. Tulln is about 40km from Vienna, and although I have not taken the time to sort all of the history around us, I am curious as to why the Tulln Silversmith would live and work in what is now Vienna.
This Haus caught my attention, though. Once upon a time, the 1920’s pop singer Franz Schier sang beautiful songs in this tavern, but that occurrence is not notable enough to warrant flying the Austrian flag as an official historic site.
The Nußdorf Parish Church, though, is crisp and clean and proudly flies the Austrian flag. Clayton Theodore and I did not go in, of course.
Soon enough we reached Nußdorfplatz to complete our errand, a fairly small and uninspiring square with a bank, grocery, bike shop, and a few other stores, cafes, and restaurants, including our delivery go-to for Chinese and Thai food. In the span of thirty minutes Clayton Theodore and I walked through a former Roman Road and across cobblestones dating before the Hapsburgs, yet somehow the modern sign welcoming visitors to the “Nut Village” seems a little out of place, as even though there are many hazelnut and walnut trees in the neighborhood, and it is not surprising to see people collecting the fallen seeds, cultivating the grapes that we wander through seems to be the primary economy.
Interestingly, the ubiquitous Austrian snack, Manner, was once made not from Nußdorf hazelnuts, but seeds from Naples, Italy. More interestingly is the story that in exchange for using the silhouette of Stephansdom on the wrapper, the wages of a person to maintain the Cathedral were to be paid by the Manner Company. Now the hazelnuts are imported from elsewhere, but the famous silhouette of Stephansdom remains on the package.