Tails From the Vienna Woods




Central Europe is showing its January colors, in which Vienna sparkles in silvertone.

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It is January after all

So, by the by we two left-brainers found ourselves with tickets to one of Vienna’s contemporary art museums, MUMOK. The museum is not a favorite of ours (we’ve visited on just one other occasion since we arrived here) but it is January after all, where the only other weekend activities are balls and brunches, neither of which we pursue.

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So This Was Christmas…

Day 1. Feeling Hopeful.

Me. “I am calling to check on the status of this lost baggage.”

KLM. “The baggage is not lost. The Amsterdam ground team is looking for the baggage.”

Me. “If the baggage is not lost, why I am calling to check on the status?”

KLM. (Looooooong Pause.) “I am sorry.”

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We awoke to wintry delight this morning, and Clayton Theodore and I hurried to the park around 0630 only to discover that we were rather latecomers!

Continue reading “Schnee!”

Traditions: Pelzhaus. Vienna is notable for their love of dogs; and also, judging by the numerous fur shops sprinkled around, fondness of furry woodland creatures whose skins can be worn when the thermometer dips. This particular fur shop is more than 90 years old and all of their offerings are still made by hand, with pelts carefully selected from “humane” farms. No irony there.


Place 11. “The Bonbons,” from “111 Places in Vienna That You Shouldn’t Miss.”

A shop as sweet on the inside as it smells, Vienna’s oldest candy store that first opened in 1936. A visit inside reveals nostalgic candies alongside the newest vegan and fair trade chocolates. Truly something for every sweet tooth.

Tannenbaum, Tirolerland, and Thai Food

A cringe-worthy post came across one of my Vienna social media news feeds last week: “Last year I went on a Christmas Market crawl and it was awesome! If anyone is interested I would love to arrange one for the group?”  

It is more than enough for me that the online presence of my adopted hometown has been taken over bloggers who only see the city for its “Best This” and “Top Ten That;” and like wearing flip-flops and sloshing Sturm from a plastic cup on a vineyard hike, traipsing from Glühwein stall to Glühwein stall is Just. Wrong.

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There exists a book, “111 Places in Vienna That You Shouldn’t Miss.”  Recently I happened upon a second-hand copy and thought it might contribute more meaning to my wandering. Of course I do not plan to wander in numerical order. This is Place 7. “Dissolved Ties”

For the latter half of its 1.000 year existence (with one tiny three-year exception), the Holy Roman Empire was ruled by Habsburg emperors.

In 1806, with Napoleonic France being a pain in the Habsburg backside of Emperor Francis II stood on the balcony of this church and dissolved the empire; then proclaimed himself Emperor of Austria.

The Last Hiking and Schnitzeling of the Season?

Quite likely, though hopefully not, one last colorful hike in the Vienna Woods for the season on Sunday, Clayton Theodore serving as our ever wily guide.

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